EDINBURGH (surveyed in 1893-4)
Edinburgh is situated on a series of low hills some two miles south of the Firth of Forth, by the east coast of Scotland.
Edinburgh means ‘fort of the rock face’ from eideann a Scottish Gaelic corruption of the word aodann meaning ‘rock face’ and the Old English word burh meaning ‘stronghold’. The word burh was a substitution for the original Scottish Gaelic word dun meaning a stronghold or fort; the Gaelic name for the city being Dun Eideann.
There appears to have been a settlement in the area from the time of the British kingdom of Gododdin in the sixth century AD. The use of the Old English word burh suggests that it was also settled by the Northumbrian Angles around the tenth century. Certainly by the eleventh century the Scottish king Malcolm III (1058-93) had a castle there and built St Margaret’s Chapel on the Castle Rock for his wife in 1076.
The town, which grew up around the base of the Castle Rock, was granted the privileges of a royal burgh by David I in 1125. He also established the Augustinian Abbey of Holyrood in 1128 and the settlement of Canongate around the abbey became a burgh of regality. Gradually the two settlements grew towards one another, along the Royal Mile, but it was not until 1630 that most of the privileges of Canongate were transferred to Edinburgh.
Meanwhile Edinburgh had been officially recognised as the nation’s capital in 1452. The Municipal Extension Act of 1856 had fully incorporated Canongate, part of Leith and some other suburbs into Edinburgh.
As a royal residence and centre of power, Edinburgh was involved in many of the more dramatic events in Scottish history, sometimes to its own loss. After the death of James V in 1542, Cardinal Beaton prevented the marriage of the Catholic infant Mary Queen of Scots to the Protestant prince Edward, son of Henry VIII of England. The English king, thwarted of his desire to combine the Scots and English crowns as a Protestant nation, invaded Scotland and sacked Edinburgh in1544. In 1707, the Act of Union between Scotland and England was passed in the parliament in Edinburgh.
The population of the parliamentary burgh in the 1891 census was 261,225, a considerable increase on the 1861 figure of 234,402. Including the suburbs that were part of the city but not a part of the parliamentary burgh, the 1891 figure was 263,464
At the time of the survey Edinburgh had two distinct parts. The Old Town (sheets iii.8.11-iii.8.16), which lay between the castle and Holyrood, consisted of narrow streets with tall buildings, crowded within the former lines of the city walls. The New Town, in contrast, had been laid out on a formal grid pattern with wide streets and a series of gardens and squares (sheets iii.7.4-iii.7.5,iii.7.8-iii.7.10, iii.7.13-iii.7.14)). The southern part of the New Town had been designed in 1767 by James Craig (1744-95), and the northern part by Robert Reid (1774-1856) in 1802.
Further changes had taken place after the Improvement Act of 1867 and much of the centre of Edinburgh had been established by the late 1870s.
The major changes which took place at the end of the century were the gradually merging of suburbs such as Morningside and Newington and the infilling of unbuilt areas around the edges of the town. This was particularly clear in the area between Edinburgh and Leith, much of which had been garden ground in the earlier nineteenth century (sheets iii.4.1-iii.4.15).
The architectural character of Edinburgh in the later nineteenth century was still dominated by the work of two architects, Robert Adam (1728-92) and William Henry Playfair (1789-1857), both of whom designed in a Neo- Classical style which had earned Edinburgh the description ‘Athens of the North’. Adam had designed a number of the New Town terraces and public buildings such as Register House. Playfair had been responsible for a number of churches and public buildings such as the National Gallery and the Royal Scottish Academy.
From the 1870s, some architects such as David Bryce (1803-76) and his followers had introduced a new ‘Scottish’ style of architecture, which reflected the architecture of many sixteenth and seventeenth century baronial castles. Among the best examples of Bryce’s work in Edinburgh was the Bank of Scotland building on the Mound (1864-71) and Fettes College (1864-70).
Notable new buildings in the late nineteenth century were the National Portrait Gallery and Antiquities Museum built in 1885-90, and the Edinburgh Central Library built between 1887 and 1890 and designed in a French style by George Washington Browne (1853-1939).
The Castle, which stood above the Old Town of Edinburgh (sheet iii.7.19), dated back to the medieval period. However, with the exception of St Margaret’s Chapel (built 1076), most of the structure that survived at the time of this survey dated to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The Palace of Holyroodhouse at the other end of the Royal Mile had been built beside the ruins of the medieval abbey of Holyrood.
Another notable building in the Old Town was St Giles’ Cathedral, which had been founded in the twelfth century but mostly rebuilt in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
There was very little industry in Edinburgh itself at this period as its prosperity was founded on financial institutions such as the banks and insurance companies, and the presence of the law courts. The industries that did thrive in the city and its hinterland were the manufacture of paper, printing and publishing! There were also a number of service industries and shops catering for the large middleclass population.
Leith (sheets i.16.14, i.16.19-i.,16.20), which acted as the port for Edinburgh, had expanded and new docks had been built by the time of this survey. There were also shipbuilding yards on the north side of Leith.
The area around Edinburgh had good supplies of both coal and iron and there were a number of collieries. There was also a large agricultural hinterland supplying food for the city population.
The Augustinian abbey of Holyrood, founded in 1128, was a major influence on the religious life of the city up to the Reformation.
Due to the burning of the city in 1544, few medieval churches survived to the nineteenth century. The Protestant reformer John Knox is said to have preached in the late medieval St Giles’ Cathedral and the city was very actively involved in the events of the Reformation.
During the nineteenth century the Established Church of Scotland parishes of Edinburgh and Cannongate were split to form a number of smaller parishes. There were also a large number of Free churches, United Presbyterian churches and Episcopalian and Roman Catholic churches in the city, as well as places of worship of a number of other faiths. These included the United Original Seceders, the Congregationalists, the Evangelical Union, Baptists, Wesleyan Methodists, English Episcopal Unitarians, Catholic Apolostolics, and Jews.
The University of Edinburgh was founded in 1582 and had been radically extended by the mid 1830s. Other colleges included the Heriot Watt College, formerly the School of Art, which had been re-endowed and had enlarged their premises in Chambers Street in 1886-8. There was also the Free Church College and a teacher training college, which had been built in the Lawnmarket in 1845.
There were many schools in the city at this time, the most prominent being the Royal High School established in 1519, the Edinburgh Academy built in 1824 and Fettes College built to a design by Bryce in 1865-70.
The institution of the Court of Sessions in Edinburgh by James V in 1532 was of major importance to the development of the city as it, and the lesser courts, necessitated the presence of a large number of the legal profession. This formed a strong middleclass element in the population, which in turn affected the development of its cultural life and of an economy based on the service industry.
The Bank of Scotland was chartered in 1695. By the late nineteenth century, there were a number of other banks and Insurance companies centred in the city.
As a capital city with a large middleclass population, Edinburgh had many cultural and scientific societies. Several of these had associated collections or libraries, some of which were open to the public. The National Gallery had been completed in 1858, and part of the new Industrial Museum in Chambers Street had been opened by 1874 and more recently the National Portrait Gallery and Antiquities Museum had been opened in 1890.
In the late nineteenth century, there were also a number of theatres. The new Theatre Royal, which had burnt in 1875 and again in 1884, had been rebuilt. The Lyceum Theatre had been built in 1883 and a music hall, called the Empire Palace of Varieties, had been erected in 1891-2. Between them, these three theatres could accommodate 8,000 people, which indicates their popularity.